BMW Engine Oil

Engine Oil for your BMW

If you have ever researched engine oil and gave up because of the never-ending debates, acronyms, and unsubstantiated claims, hopefully this page will 'click' for you. What we want to do is educate our customers and other enthusiasts who might have a casual understanding of engine oil and want to learn more. From our racing programs, project cars, service work, and our own personal experience we have accumulated deep understanding of what oil should be and what it isn't. We're not oil chemists or engineers and not part of the API (an oil industry trade group) so these are our impressions based on experience and research.

TL;DR:      
- Allow oil to reach optimum temperature before driving hard - 210-220°F (99-104°C) if you have an oil temp gauge. Without a gauge wait until the coolant temp gauge is at normal center position.       
- Use a high quality oil if you expect high performance. With engine oil you absolutely get what you pay for - pay a little more and you get better oil.      
- Match your oil to your engine spec and mileage, which may not be what's in your owner's manual.      
- Our recommended oil change interval is 5,000 miles.      
- Get a regular used oil analysis done to observe internal engine wear as well as oil compatibility.      
- Get out and drive! Avoid short trips where oil never reaches optimum temp and moisture doesn't burn off. Once up to temp, open the throttle(s) and give your engine the opportunity to recirculate oil.

Click here if you just want to skip ahead to our BMW model oil recommendations.

At the bottom of the page is a chart for acronyms, jargon, and other terminology used in oil discussions.

Basic Oil Knowledge    
Engine oil has four functions: lubrication, protection, cooling, and cleaning. In other words: performance, longevity, durability, and emissions. Engine internals are all metals: steel, aluminum, magnesium, titanium, etc. Metal-on-metal contact creates friction, which creates heat and wear on both surfaces. The more heat and stress and a higher quality oil is required. Oil is pumped or scattered around the engine internals and pumped up to the cylinder head to eliminate or reduce metal-on-metal contact. The best motor oils will coat the engine internals in a strong layer of lubrication and hold its strength even under extreme heat.  

BMW LL Engine Oil Approvals      
Just like API ratings, BMW revises their oil formulations every few years based on contemporary engine design, mileage and emissions requirements, fuel type and quality, region, service plans, and marketing. Each new “LL” spec is coded by year and roughly corresponds to new generations of BMW engines. However, they will also revise the ratings to work with contemporary engines. Newer LL approvals do not supersede previous versions unless specifically noted - your engine should stay within the LL rating it was “born” with. These ratings are just a guide so that the appropriate oil is used for your engine design. And like our API approach we recommend using a BMW oil spec that matches your BMW engine model and type. Most oil you find at big box stores will not advertise a BMW LL rating and most “Euro formula” oils are just too generic to be considered correct for your engine.

Scroll down to view specific BMW LL ratings.

API Ratings on the Bottle      
If you shop for oil at a big box store you have very little info to go by on the bottle (but a lot of marketing!). You get two required bits of information: SAE oil viscosity ("5W40") and an API rating ("SN"). "S" is for automotive Service (a "C" code is for commercial/Diesel vehicles). In essence the API rating indicates what the oil formula is and what it's intended use is. With each new major formula revision a new rating is released. API ratings began with “SA” in the 1930s but there have been six new ratings just within the last 30 years!      

API states that the current rating of SP is backwards compatible to previous ratings going back to SJ in the early 2000s. But we believe in matching oil to your current engine's mileage and equipment. An SP or SN oil developed for direct injection, E85 fuel, and ceramic catalytic converters may be compatible with your older BMW but that doesn't make it the most appropriate. Below we'll try to explain the most recent API ratings and how they apply to BMW models.      

API SP. Released in 2020 and specific for very thin viscosities - 0W12, 0W16, and 0W20 - and used on direct-injection engines. The new standard specifically addresses low emissions, timing chain wear, and low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI). While this rating will be meaningful for street-driven, daily, non-tuned 2022+ BMW models the important data point is that these are low viscosity oils with much lower HTHS scores - a 0W12 only has a minimum HTHS score of 2.0 cP.       
API SN. Intended for 2007+ gasoline direct injection cars with ceramic catalytic converters instead of metallic catalytic converters. This is a formula that is more friendly to modern engines than previous “heavy” oils that contained a lot of ZDDP and carbon ash (SAPS). If you used an older oil spec in your newer car you may find carbon build-up on the intake valves and catalytic converter failure to be recurring problems. The SN oil is are simply better-suited to the latest DI technology (see the section below on Direct Injection engines). This is not bad oil for these engines and if you still have factory cats this is the oil rating you should be using. Bonus points if the bottle carries a Mercedes 229.5 (MB229.5) approval as Mercedes standards are among the highest of OE manufacturers. If you need extra protection for track use or aggressive driving, switch to a thicker viscosity.      
API SM. 2005-2010 models but this doesn't really apply to BMW. Use an SN oil for a car that retains all of its factory equipment.      
API SL. 2005 or older. Many people consider SL to be the last "good oil" before ZDDP levels were reduced. We recommend an SL oil for pretty much all cars built before the E90 generation: E85, E83, E63, E60, E53, E46, E39, E38, Z3, E36, E34, and E32. It can be used in E30 and older models too but only in thicker viscosity. These cars can use an SN oil but SL is much more appropriate. It can also be used in newer cars (E9X, F3X, etc) that have had cats removed (such as race cars) or street cars converted to metallic cats. The higher ZDDP levels will be advantageous in aggressive driving.      
API SJ. 2001 and older. The original formula for cars built in the 1990s or older but you're not likely to find it anymore. See API SL above.      

The BimmerWorld View: If you're going to use an older API oil on a newer car you must be aware of the differences. The higher ZDDP and SAPS will lead to more carbon build-up and shorten the life of a factory ceramic catalytic converter. It could also clog the catalytic converter leading to a major loss of power or engine damage. This is not the oil's fault. You must allow the oil to reach operating temperature - no heavy throttle until warm and avoid short trips. Keeping the oil warm-hot will help in proper oil burning and re-circulation. If other mods dictate higher ZDDP you should really consider an aftermarket metallic cat.  

More Fuel-Efficient & Cleaner Engine Oil      
Since the 1990s, stricter EPA and CARB (California Air Resources Board) regulations have forced engine oil into a massive overhaul to make engines more efficient and cleaner. The newest oil specifications have made oil thinner with less friction and drag on internal surfaces, especially the oil pump. This has made the engines burn less fuel but at the expense of protection. The latest oils break down easier at high temps and do not provide as much protection, especially the common brands found at big box stores. Despite the marketing blitz, these big name oils have been reformulated more for emissions compliance. Additives and components that made oil "good" were removed because they were either too harmful for the environment or deemed unnecessary for a new generation of engines and driving habits. They have been replaced with alternative additives that are not as good. All of these new regulations add up to a cleaner environment but it comes at the expense of quality and performance. Engine oil has actually gotten "worse" in recent years, especially as performance is increased and engines accumulate wear.

Oil Base Stock      
When is a synthetic not a synthetic? When it's a blend! To understand oil quality you have to first know of the base stock. This is the absolute purest form of lubricating oil that every brand starts with. There are three types that you will encounter:      

Group III. Petroleum based with synthetic additives. BMW-approved oils must be a Type III. If you want a BMW stamp of approval it must be a Type III, even though it is not a full synthetic and IV and V are a better basis for high-performance oil. Many Group III oils will use PAO and/or ester synthetics in their blend and are quite capable as good oil, until you ask too much of it. The chemical strength of the petroleum base can only do so much.      
Group IV. True synthetic using poly-alpha-olefin (PAO). The true synthetic allows engineers to tailor a Group IV oil to be stronger than a III oil. This is especially important in sheer strength where a III oil would break down and allow more friction. IV oils can also be engineered to have less evaporation, leaving a better lubricating oil behind even under extreme temps. The PAO formula seems to offer the best of all worlds.      
Group V. True synthetic using esters. These oils are also true, full synthetic and will exceed the strength of a Group IV in critical areas. They are more miscible than a IV oil so it mixes with other chemicals easier. Group V esters also have drawbacks that limit their application to being an additive for IV oils. Esters tend to also be more expensive to produce.      

Ultra premium oils will draw from Type IV and V base stocks to create a blend suitable for their needs. No one Group is better than the others but they each have specific strengths that make them more appealing for certain uses. Create a formula using a mix of IV and V and you have the best of all worlds.      

Product Labels & Marketing      
Most premium oil brands label their products as "full synthetic" when they are really a blend. If you look at the ingredients published on most MSDS (Material Data Safety Sheet) or "Physical Properties" the first ingredient will be "petroleum", "hydro-", or "synthetic base oil". Any large percentage of petroleum content is NOT a "full" synthetic. The "false advertising" laws in the US are more lax than elsewhere in the world. Many of the ultra-premium oils in the US cannot be labeled as full synthetic in other parts of the world. Instead, they play with the words like “Synthesis Technology”. This doesn't mean we're getting bad oil in the US, or that Group III blended oils will not perform well, but at best you're getting a "really good Group III oil". A Group III oil may even surpass a IV/V oil in certain tests and may be more appropriate for specific situations. Red Line produces truly synthetic oils using Group IV and Group V base stocks, except in specific cases where they "downgrade" their oil to get an OE approval. Base stock is not the only determining factory in oil quality and performance but it is a big one.      
 

Various Types of Oil to Buy

Big Box off-the-shelf. Shopping from any of the chain stores will give you plenty of options for modern engine oil. These are almost always API SN or SP rated oils for the engines built within the last few years. And always aimed at the mass-market DIY person. If you use your BMW for commuting or exclusively on the street there is very little downside to a big box oil and frequent oil changes (4,000-6,000 miles).      
Big Box Premium. In rare cases you will find a higher-performance brand in addition to the usual brands. A lot of this is marketing and you will find the same API ratings and Type III base stocks as the others. But these have marketing behind them to make them appear as a premium oil. If you use your BMW for commuting or exclusively on the street there is very little advantage to these oils versus a cheaper brand, especially with frequent oil changes (4,000-6,000 miles).      
Ultra Premium. We consider these to be the Group IV and Group V oils that are true synthetics. These are from true specialty oil manufacturers like Red Line or Motul, and certain LiquiMoly and Amsoil products. Their chemical engineering puts them in a class above and at a higher price point so it's rare to find these at big box or chain stores. They are not produced to meet a pricing goal - they are engineered to be great oil.      
Specialized. Also from premium manufacturers are certain niche oils that are engineered for a certain market. Pay close attention to the bottle and marketing as these may be highly beneficial depending on your engine specs. The Red Line Euro formula comes to mind as it's one of the few oils specifically engineered for BMW LL-04 specs.      
The Diesel Oil Alternative. Diesel oil has been exempt from EPA regulations to remove Zinc additives so it's overall better at coating metal surfaces. The heavy-duty Diesel oil (HDEO) also contains detergents that clean internal surfaces. Engine builders will often recommend Diesel oil for the first oil fill because it cleans away grease and other chemicals used in engine assembly. Buying Diesel oil from a big box store has become risky since the manufacturers are shifting to more environmentally friendly formulas. Also realize that higher ZDDP is not good for modern ceramic catalytic converters. We also have no experience using Diesel oil on the track or under high stress so we may continue to recommend a Red Line product for those conditions.      
Racing Oil. Red Line and others produce "Racing Oils". This is not marketing and there are actual differences that you should be aware of. True racing oil differs from normal oil in 2 ways: ZDDP content and additives. Race oils contain extremely high ZDDP content for superior strength. Strength is required for prolonged engine use at high RPM and high stress, such as extended laps on a race track. Race oil also lacks detergents and other additives that attack contamination. It's not uncommon for race cars to have frequent engine work where everything is cleaned and checked by hand. Street engines do not enjoy this level of attention and they need the detergents found in normal oil. In addition, most cars are simply not driven in a way that racing oil would be a benefit. The benefits of racing oil in traffic and around town are entirely lost. Racing oil offers outstanding protection and lubrication but only in a true racing environment.      
 

BMW-Specific Oil Info

BMW Engine Oil Approvals      
BMW revises their oil formulations every few years based on contemporary engine design, mileage and emissions requirements, fuel type and quality, region, service plans, and marketing. Each new spec is coded by year and roughly corresponds to new generations of BMW engines. This is not the same as oil viscosity and there can be multiple oil viscosities for the same Approval type. These types are just a guide so that the appropriate oil is used for your engine design.      

LL-98 (1998). API SJ. ACEA A3/B3. SAE 5W30, 5W40. The oldest available specification. Anything with this rating has been approved for older model BMWs - all chassis before the E46 and engines before the M54. BMW no longer produces oil in this spec but LL-98 alternatives exist (Red Line 5W40). LL-98 oils are compatible with LL-01 oils.

LL-01 (2001). API SJ/SL. ACEA A3/B3. SAE 5W30, 5W40, 10W60. The first revision with detergents and additives brought in to work with the ridiculous 15,000 mile oil change interval that BMW promoted at the time. However, once cars and engines were out of warranty and mileage accumulated the nasty effects of extended oil changes were realized (i.e. oil sludge). This was also the start of the decline of ZDDP levels with more additives brought in to take its place. LL-01 is compatible with engines approved for LL-98. LL-01 is still coveted as the best of the "old" oil.

LL-01 FE (2018). API SP. ACEA A5/B5. SAE 0W30. The FE replaces the previous “desirable” BMW oil and 0W30 replaces 5W30. BMW needs to keep pace with current models and technology and the 5W30/LL01 no longer applied to the current turbo engines. The viscosity is lower to better cope with cold-starts and more frequent use of the Stop/Start feature. The LL01FE 0W30 is the current “performance” BMW engine oil, and the only oil approved for Motorsport engines - S55, S58, and S68.

LL-04 (2005). API SM/SN. ACEA C3 (similar to A3). SAE 5W30, 5W40. The LL-04 oils have been greatly misunderstood in the past but this is now in greater demand. Most LL-04 oils are intended for Diesels, although it was also approved for gas engines in Europe and other world markets. BMW never certified LL-04 for the US (see next paragraph). Diesel oil has long been valued by engine builders and tuners because of its higher levels of ZDDP content. LL-04 also has a lower SAPS value which is good news for direct-injection engines. You won't find Genuine BMW LL-04 sold here but Red Line Euro-Series oil and Pentosin SP III are produced around this spec.

BMW never certified LL-04 for the US market because a) there weren't many Diesels for sale here, b) it was incompatible with the high amounts of sulfur and Ethanol in US gasoline. However, since 2014 our gasoline more closely matches European sulfur levels and since 2017 it's been lower than the past European levels. Oil analysis can give you more insight how your local fuel is interacting with the oil. LL-04 and LL-01 are interchangeable/compatible but LL-04 is preferred for BMW turbo engines for its higher ZDDP and low SAPS. Food for thought: the official BMW Motorsport oil recommendation for the M4 GT4 race car is a LL-04 spec oil. Our race team has used the Red Line Euro Series 5W40.

LL-12 (2012). New specifications for Diesel engines. This replaces the previous LL-04 spec. The formula is aimed for improving efficiency and fuel economy.

LL-14 (2014). API SN. ACEA A1/B1. SAE 0W20. Formulated for certain gasoline BMW engines from the 2014 model year, including the N20 four cylinder engine and all new modular B-series engines. The reasoning for the N20 is unpublished but may have to do with making N20 models more fuel efficient and avoiding gas guzzler and CAFE penalties. LL-14 oils have much lower friction levels than other BMW oils. The HTHS rating is 2.6cP which makes it unsuitable as a performance oil.

LL-17 & LL-17 FE (2018). API SN/SP. ACEA C5. SAE 0W20. Replaces the LL-14 spec for N20, B38, B46, B48, and B58 engines. This appears to be a minor update to the LL-14 formula and designed for improved emissions.

LL-22 FE++ (2022). API SP. SAE 0W12. This oil spec is centered around 2023+ B58 and B48 powertrains that also use 48V Mild Hybrid systems. The super-thin viscosity is for efficiency and low drag on the engine as it is stopped and re-started by the 48V system. It's also been formulated for compatibility with the new coated engine bearings. This should not be considered a high-performance oil with HTHS as low as 2.0 cP. However, it's a little too soon to say what any alternative could be, especially a high-performance alternative.    

BMW Oil Consumption      
BMW engines are designed to consume some oil and there are factory-authorized guidelines for how much is considered normal. In order for the oil to reach critical areas it's normal for some of it to make it's way into the combustion chamber and be burned up with the air/fuel mixture. If your BMW engine is consuming/burning oil, do not panic. It could be normal operation. Side note: Leaks and consumption are not the same thing. Oil leaks may also be a "normal" fact of BMW life but they should still be properly repaired or diagnosed. Below is a table outlining accepted oil consumption for BMW engines (data is from BMW).      
 

Engine Break-in. Oil consumption will be higher in the initial life of an engine. All of the moving parts have not yet seated in their final positions and gaps and clearances may be greater than normal. The break-in period varies by engine but BMW advises not to be concerned with oil consumption in the first 10,000 miles. Break-in times may be less depending on use and care.      

Engine Wear. As engine internals wear down gaps and tolerances will increase. On parts like piston rings and valve seals this allows more oil into the combustion chamber. Continuing with a factory-approved oil weight (0W30, 5W30) will likely increase oil consumption. It is impossible for BMW to give an indication on when these clearances and gaps are too large. If you notice more oil consumption we advise switching to a heavier weight oil that does not flow into the combustion chamber as easily. Heavier oils will also help piston rings maintain engine compression (restoring lost power). If oil consumption continues with a heavier weight oil, explore other possibilities such as badly worn rings, valve seals, or a poorly functioning oil circulation system.

Ideal Engine Oil Temp      
In short: 212-220°F (99-104°C) with high-quality oil is what we feel comfortable with for regular street use. Up to 260F (126C) is acceptable for track use but is reaching the higher end of the temp scale by that point.

Why 212°F? Because that is the temp for water to boil and vaporize. It's critical for a properly functioning PCV/oil vent system to remove water from the oil. If water remains it can freeze and turn the oil into a sludge. Water also reduces oil performance and can interfere with its function. We're comfortable running higher than 212F to keep moisture away but also to thin the oil to a point where it flows properly and does not cause drag. BMW engines work better in a hotter temp zone than if it was too cool.

For track use: first, you must have the best oil if you expect the best performance. Second, higher oil temps are nothing to be afraid of (see previous point) and there is no need to run extra-large oil coolers. In our pro race cars we clean all of the radiators and coolers after every session. Higher temp = higher friction and wear so obviously be aware of how long you're running at these temps. Higher temp also equals oil damage, regardless of how premium the oil is. Everything burns at some point and higher temps will damage the oil. If oil reaches sustained temps of 260F we plan to change the oil immediately after the event.

We generally set warnings in our AiM dash for 260-270F and would consider ending a session if it was over 270. But also keep in mind that sensors are subject to heat soak and/or residual heat from other components that could artificially raise the sensor temp higher than the actual oil temp.

All of the above recommendations are based on using Red Line or another ultra-premium oil that can work in higher temps. Modern off-the-shelf oils will not.

Note that a Start/Stop “feature” will prevent an engine from getting up to and staying at an ideal temperature. Make sure you use Start/Stop only when it makes sense and it's not recommended if you're using a thicker performance oil.     


Engine Oil and Bearings     
Much debate has been spent on rod and main bearing clearance and the results from using the factory oil viscosity. With as much engineering and science in internal combustion there is no hard-and-fast rule for clearance and viscosity. There are simply too many variables. We're left with rule-of-thumb, albeit very experienced thumbs. We're not going to choose sides or drown you in journal sizes and measurements within .0001. What we can all agree on is that the original 10W60 oil is very thick at ambient temperature and the bearing clearances are tighter than what is typically accepted as standard. When properly warmed, the 10W60 is still a tad thicker than what most builders would consider ideal but it's not dangerously thick. If it were dangerous, BMW would not have kept that oil in use for 20 years. If you run thick oil with tight clearances you must ensure the oil is warmed properly. It's that simple. If you feel that's not the right approach you have multiple avenues for a more comfortable result, including thinner oil or bearings with more clearance. Keep in mind when rebuilding an engine - new “Stage 0” bearings on an original crank will result in more clearance than when the crank was new (the crank has some wear, opening up the clearance). So it may be appropriate to use a higher viscosity oil.

Some other things to note:

Don't fully believe the SAE weights printed on the bottle. They don't always reflect the actual performance of the oil. See the chart below for S54 & S65 engines. Look for and understand the actual kinematic viscosity data (higher numbers = thicker viscosity). The factory 10W60 oil is among the thickest oil grades available (the 60 is the top of the SAE chart).

Oil viscosity is one factor in oil technology but there is so much more. When talking about S-code engines (S54, S65, etc) a more vital data point is the HTHS (shear) rating that indicates the oil's strength. This is also super important when talking about tight clearances. If you have that super-thin oil layer between the journal and the bearing you will need a stronger oil to handle that load. Thicker oils tend to have higher strength. So if you want to use a thinner oil with your factory S54/S65 bearings make sure it's the strongest oil you can find (hint: this strength can only come from true Group IV/V synthetics). Our advice is to match your oil with the engine specs and expected running temperature. Also appreciate that the best oil may not come with a BMW label.  

IROX Bearing Coating  
Beginning in the early 2020s some of the main and connecting rod bearings included a special coating - IROX. It's a polyamide-imide, a hardened plastic-type lubricant. It's only purpose is to provide a lubricating layer to the bearings when there is no oil circulation. In the hybrid gas-electric models, especially from 2023-on, the electric drive can take over propulsion from the internal combustion engine. The engine can shut down while the electric motor (usually inside the transmission) continues powering the car, usually during coasting driving. The engine will restart at a pre-determined point. But since the engine is not running, the oil pump is not spinning and providing oil circulation. So BMW needed an alternative lubricant that was “permanently” fixed to the bearings. The IROX coating has excellent compatibility with petroleum and synthetic oils.  


Service Plans and Extended Oil Change Intervals      
Free oil changes and extended oil change intervals are marketing gimmicks that have been criticized since their introduction. We're no fans of them either. Thankfully, BMW has backed away from the ridiculous 15,000 mile oil changes but they still have extended recommendations that make us a little uncomfortable. With advanced engineering it's certainly possible to have oil that works "good enough" after 10,000 or 12,000 easy miles. But with the accumulation of dirt, moisture, and the chemical breakdown from heat and friction we just don't believe it's wise to leave oil in for that long. With everything that oil is responsible for it just makes sense to change it often. It's also a good idea to have regular oil analysis done, especially on higher mileage engines and M engines. The analysis will give you great insight into internal engine wear, especially rod bearings.      

Our oil change recommendation is 5,000 miles.      

Here is an example of the Used Oil Analysis process from one of our customers:      

     
 

BimmerWorld Oil Recommendations

We've put together some suggestions in the table below based on intended use, an oil change interval of 5,000-6,000 miles, and our own preferences from over 25 years in the BMW tuning and racing world. Our "go-to" oil is unquestionably Red Line synthetic because we have seen its superiority first hand in our customer and race cars. And we appreciate the extra lengths Red Line goes in providing a better product than other niche oil manufacturers. They use a higher quality base stock that is simply stronger and better, especially in high heat/high friction situations. We also recommend having a regular used oil analysis to get the best insight on how your engine and oil are working together.      
 

How Do You Buy 'Good' Oil?

The BimmerWorld View: The oil that you find at major auto parts stores is going to be "mass market" formulas that are not ideal for most BMW applications. BMW and the major oil brands produce their oils to meet the latest industry API rating, fuel economy targets, and emission regulations. All of the commercials and advertising is just marketing and some of it is just downright misleading (see labeling section above). You will likely never find a true BMW-approved oil on the shelf, let alone a Group IV or V high performance synthetic like Red Line. We would not advise or trust chain store oils for high performance use (although they might be adequate for daily driver use). If you want to shop your local big box store follow our API guidelines noted above. But realize the best oil is going to be from specialists like BimmerWorld who are interested in selling the right oil, not the most oil.      

In Europe, only Group IV and V oils can be labeled as synthetic. In North America, the advertising oversight is more lax and Group III oil can be labeled as "synthetic", even if it's not. These are really blends or "Group III+". The high performance oil labeled as synthetic is really a blend using inferior base stock.      

 

Recommended Oils - Vintage/Elder Engines (M10, M20, M30)

Red Line 10W40 Engine Oil

Red Line 15W50 Engine Oil

Red Line 20W50 Engine Oil

Recommended Oils - Vintage M Engines (S14, M88, S38)

Red Line 15W50 Engine Oil

Red Line 20W50 Engine Oil

Recommended Oils - 1992-2013 Non-Turbo (M42, M50, M62, N52, N62, S50US, S52, etc)

Red Line 5W30 Engine Oil

Red Line 10W40 Engine Oil

Red Line Professional 5W40 Engine Oil

BMW 5W30 Engine Oil

Recommended Oils - 2001-2013 M Engines (S54, S62, S65, S85)

BMW 10W60 Engine Oil

Red Line 15W50 Engine Oil

Red Line 10W60 Engine Oil

BMW used super-thick 10W60 oil in the S62, S54, S65, and S85 M engines of the 2000s. There is nothing fundamentally wrong with any of the various BMW/OEM 10W60 oils and we might recommend them over other oils (especially if your 3rd party warranty has explicit terms). With various complaints about rod bearings (including a factory recall on the S54) it might make sense for you to only use BMW-approved oil with your Genuine BMW bearings. But remove any warranty considerations and we ultimately prefer Red Line. Our top pick is the 15W50 - it has a thinner viscosity and lower pour point than factory BMW 10W60 even with a SAE 15W grade. This lower viscosity when cold means the oil penetrates the bearing surfaces and critical clearances more easily. When hot, the Red Line formula has similar evaporation and better shear resistance than factory oil, despite being graded as a 50 vs. 60. The thinner hot viscosity means less drag (more power) and less friction and heat. The Red Line is just a better formula using better base stock. Red Line also makes a 10W60 but it's a thicker viscosity than any other 10W60 and should only be used in track or very hot climates.      

As with any engine, but more so with M engines, it is absolutely crucial that you warm the engine properly before subjecting it to high throttle angles and high RPM. Let the car warm up before driving aggressively - an optimum oil temp is 210-220°F on the gauge. And make sure your oil is "climate correct" - a thinner oil may be desired in freezing climates which is all the more reason to have the best quality oil.      

The BimmerWorld View: “10W60” does not mean magic oil and we would be suspect of anyone pushing you to use it. A BMW-branded 10W60 is not a bad oil and we won't discourage you from using it. But there is so much more happening below the surface that we can toss out the viscosity and recommend an oil that is simply better in all respects. On tracked M engines (E46 M3, E9X M3) the Red Line products have greater shear strength, low evaporation, and high ZDDP. We can get all of that with the Red Line 15W50 that comes up to temp quicker and reaches tight tolerances easier. For street cars the factory BMW-branded 10W60 will be adequate and Red Line will be better. As always: get your oil to operating temp without added stress on the engine.      

The chart below provides several key laboratory tests on oil viscosity and was part of our decision to use 15W50. This data is readily available online, however, BMW does not publish oil specifications. We included Shell Helix 10W60 as it's believed the BMW oil is based on this formula (although likely changed for BMW's spec). You can see the Red Line 15W is thinner at the cold temp, which is better for tight bearing clearances. And the Red Line 50 weight is not as thick at the higher temp but it's greater shear strength makes up for the lack of viscosity.      
 

Recommended Oils - 2012-2016 4-cyl Turbo Engines (N20, N26)

Red Line Euro 5W30 Engine Oil

Red Line 0W30 Engine Oil

BMW 0W30 Engine Oil

BMW 0W20 Engine Oil       High Efficiency

The N20 engine originally used the company-standard 5W30 engine oil. But as fuel economy standards were raised BMW switched the spec to 0W20. No mechanical or internal changes were made but this helped fuel economy and lower emissions. We would continue to recommend 0W20 for a daily driver but for any tuned engine, or any engine that sees aggressive driving or track use, we would rather see the Red Line 5W30, Red Line 0W30, or the BMW 0W30. Either Red Line will offer greater protection than the BMW oil and also be thin enough for cold start protection. In our own 328i race cars we used the Red Line 10W40 but that was for dedicated race use, sustained high RPM running, and religious warm-up procedures. Note: a previous version of this page had Red Line 5W40 Professional Series and this is still an option, especially with BMW factory approval, but we try to limit this space to four products and the 0W30 is more appropriate for street use.      

Also see "Direct Injection" info below. The information from the N54/N55 engine oil also pertains to N20/N26/B46.      
 

Recommended Oils - 2017-2023 4-cyl Turbo Engines (B46)

Red Line 0W20 Engine Oil

BMW 0W20 Engine Oil       High Efficiency

The B46 is an super-efficient engine for lower emissions and greater fuel economy. BMW uses a very thin oil to help deliver that better economy - a 0W20 with either LL14 or LL17 formulas. Looking over the limited amount of technical specs available, this 0W20 oil is about 30% thinner than the original 5W30 oil. Marketing backs this up with claims of improved fuel economy. The thinner oil is also beneficial for cold starts and continuous Stop/Start cycles. For these reasons we recommend staying with the Genuine BMW 0W20 oil or Pentosin 0W20 for normal driving in traffic. But it will never be a good oil for spirited driving or track use. If you regularly make runs to red line we recommend using the Red Line 0W20 which has good low temp specs but with more ZDDP for better strength.      

For aggressive driving with regular runs to red line, we don't yet have an official recommendation. We need to know more about the engine internals, wear, and clearances to say which is our favorite oil. Just looking at paper specs, the BMW 0W30 may be a good option for sporty driving. It has slightly thicker viscosities and better HTHS strength than the BMW 0W20 but is not as thick as the Red Line.      
 

Recommended Oils - 2007-2022 6-cyl US Turbo Engines (N54, N55, S55, B58, S58)

Red Line Euro 5W30 Engine Oil	Red Line Euro 5W40 Engine Oil	Red Line Professional 5W40 Engine Oil	BMW 0W30 Engine Oil
Red Line 5W30 Engine Oil	Red Line 5W40 Engine Oil	Red Line 10W40 Engine Oil

To minimize carbon build-up and Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) we prefer an engine oil that has lower amounts of carbon, zinc, and ash as a byproduct of combustion. Otherwise known as low or mid SAPS (Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur). These are oils with an API of SN or higher or a BMW LL-04 rating. The Red Line Euro Series is specifically engineered as a high-performance LL-04 oil for gas and Diesel engines. It's technically a mid-SAPS product so proper oil circulation and warm-up is still vital to minimize carbon build-up and catalytic damage.

Any API SM/SL/SJ or BMW LL-01 oil “can” be also be used, however, the ZDDP and SAPS content will be higher. This will require extra attention for proper warm-up, a perfectly functioning oil circulation system, and more frequent treatment or removal of carbon build-up. An oil catch-can would also be a benefit to separate larger oil particles and help prevent carbon build-up.. These oils will be any BMW LL-01 rating, any of the Red Line High Performance, and any 10W40 viscosity We would not say to “stay away” from these oils because there is great benefit to their oil performance, but it comes with some trade-offs.

Recommended Oils - 2023+ 4-cyl Turbo Engines (B48P)

BMW 0W12 Engine Oil

BMW 0W20 Engine Oil       High Efficiency

BMW made the jump to thinner 0W12 engine oil to further improve fuel economy. These engines, technology, materials, and engineering are so focused on low emissions and economy that there isn't a great argument to change to a different oil. The owners of these cars likely value the efficiency and cleaner emissions. Our first recommendation is to stay with the 0W12 LL-22FE++ oil spec. But we would probably have regular and frequent oil analysis done to ensure the internal wear is not higher because of the thinner oil. As a factory-approved alternative, the 0W20 LL-17FE oil will give you a bit more headroom in viscosity and sheer strength without giving up too much in efficiency and economy. There is nothing that says you absolutely must use the 0W12.

For aggressive driving with regular runs to red line, we don't yet have an official recommendation. We need to know more about the engine internals, wear, and clearances to say which is our favorite oil. Just looking at paper specs, the BMW 0W30 may be a good option for sporty driving. It has slightly thicker viscosities and better HTHS strength than the BMW 0W20 and is still a factory-approved alternative.

Recommended Oils - 2023+ Mild Hybrid Models (B58N 6-cyl Turbo Engine)

BMW 0W12 Engine Oil

BMW 0W20 Engine Oil

BMW 0W30 Engine Oil

The 0W12 is the factory-fill for the 40i models with the 48V Mild Hybrid powertrain. For maximum efficiency our recommendation is to continue using it. Although we would probably have regular and frequent oil analysis done to ensure the internal wear is not higher because of the thin oil. There is no requirement that you must continue to use the 0W12. BMW approved two other oils for the B58N engine - 0W20 LL-17FE+ and 0W30 LL-01FE. Either one would be an improvement for sheer strength and bonding to metal surfaces with some reduction in fuel economy (in theory). The tradeoff is better protection, especially at higher temps and stress. If you're in a hot climate or use the vehicle for towing, autocross, track days, etc you should absolutely use a higher viscosity. We don't have a high-performance oil recommendation yet. We need to know more about the engine internals, wear, and clearances to say which is our favorite oil. Just looking at paper specs, the BMW 0W30 may be a good option for sporty driving or towing. The 0W20 would be an efficient oil for day-to-day use with more strength margin than the original 0W12. 

5W30 vs 0W30 (LL01 vs LL01FE)
The two seem so close… what's the difference? Can I use 0W30 instead of 5W30? Short answer: yes, and you probably should in most cases.

The longer answer involves more in-depth understanding of API and BMW LongLife oil ratings. This is not a comparison meant to include all brands and formulas of xW30 motor oil (there's probably thousands of variants). Rather, this is an informal point-of-view of the general differences because we can pick out a point in time when things changed. In BMW-speak, 5W30 fell under the LongLife-01 oil rating (LL01) that was introduced in the early 2000s. It was the workhorse of the BMW fleet and compatible with every contemporary BMW engine save for the S54, S85, and S65. In terms of testing it had strong sheer strength (HTHS), low evaporation, and “strong” viscosity for its SAE grade (compared to other 5W30). And it followed the API SL formula, which meant strong levels of ZDDP.

At some point - let's say 2007 - BMW engine technology drastically changed. Their first turbocharged engine in decades was released, the N54, and other evolutions in fuel injection, oil circulation, emissions, and catalytic converter materials were introduced in rapid-fire bursts. And oil had to change. The older petroleum-based “dino” oils were no longer an ideal match for the technology, particularly in combustion byproducts. A little bit of oil is burned up inside the engine and makes its way into the exhaust and the crankcase. This byproduct is heavy in carbon and ash. Under a perfectly-functioning crankcase vent system, these particles would be swept up and returned to the oil pan where they should be drained at the next service. A poorly-functioning system deposited them in the intake and on the back of intake valves. When entered into the exhaust, they would be deposited onto the ceramic material in the catalytic converters, leading to blockages and clogs. There are numerous engine service, performance, and health problems related to using the wrong oil.

Enter 0W30. BMW needed a major overhaul of oil formulas. Following LL01 came LL04, LL14, LL17, and now up to LL19. For some reason, BMW calls the 0W30 “LL01 FE”. The FE stands for Fuel Economy. If going chronologically, the 0W30 would have been a LL18 but there is some value in linking it back to the vaunted 5W30. Some of those LL ratings have a particular focus on Diesel but still include gasoline engines. With each new formula came further refinements to the additives and chemical make-up of the oil. The shift is away from petroleum and more to synthetic base oils that are more compatible with the newer technology. The thinner viscosity also helps with frequent use of the Stop/Start feature and has less drag on internal components, which means better fuel economy. The 0W30 is still a strong oil in laboratory tests - the test result differences to 5W30 are statistically unimportant. So it's wrong to simply say, “It's thinner so it must be worse.” The engineering is much, much deeper than the SAE viscosity grade.

To summarize: forget about the old LL01 5W30 if you have a 2007+ turbocharged BMW engine. The 0W30 is much more compatible for everyday use. For a higher-performance modern oil, look to the Red Line Euro-Series 5W30 or 5W40. The Euro-Series is LL04 rated so it's better-engineered for direct injection, ceramic cats, and pre-ignition (LSPI). It also has better sheer strength and lower evaporation than factory 0W30. And read on below for more in-depth examination of specific engine tech that affects oil.

Oil for Direct Injection (DI) engines.      
In port-injected engines (basically all engines before 2007) the crankcase vent system would dump oil mist into the intake. A lot of this would end up on the back of the intake valves. The port injectors would spray gasoline into the intake and keep the intake valves relatively clean. However, DI engines have similar crankcase vent designs but move the fuel injector past the intake and directly into the combustion chamber so the valves no longer receive a cleansing spray. DI engines can also suffer from a weak crankcase vent system (CCV). The crankcase vent is designed to redistribute oil vapor from the engine through the intake and back into the combustion chamber. A poorly functioning CCV would let too much oil into the intake where it coats the intake valves with hardened carbon or sludge (the N54 twin-turbo engine is notorious for this). Auto and oil manufacturers now push oil formulas with low SAPS levels, which are supposed to leave fewer carbon deposits. But the trade-off is lower wear protection at high operating temps (exactly what you don’t want in a highly tuned turbo engine).      

The BimmerWorld View: Our happy compromise is the Red Line Euro Series oil (5W30 or 5W40) that meets BMW LL-04 oil spec. These are mid-SAPS oils that are safe for modern cats and DI engines. Red Line's better base stocks also have lower evaporation (NOACK) and higher ZDDP protection. It's just a better all-around oil than an off-the-shelf brand. The Red Line 0W30 also comes into play as a thinner version of the 5W30. It bridges the gap between BMW 0W30 and BMW 5W30. Use it for M cars or other models that get driven aggressively. For even better protection we use Red Line High Performance 5W30 and 10W40 but keep in mind that it has higher SAPS and ZDDP and is not good for modern catalytic converters (but great if you have metallic cats or have removed them altogether).      

You can also change your driving habits to avoid oil sludge and build-up. The sludge comes from moisture that mixes with the oil vapor and then settles when the engine is shut off. Allowing the car to reach optimum temperature and avoiding short trips will burn off this moisture. Short trips are considered drives where the engine never reaches, or doesn't stay at, normal coolant temperature. Low RPM and constant minimum throttle will also fail to pull enough vacuum for the crankcase vent to work properly. We encourage regular runs up to high RPM and varying your throttle (an "Italian tune-up"). Yes, preventing poor CCV performance may be to get out and drive. But for the safety of yourself and others, please drive responsibly.      

All of the above also applies to reducing Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). This is ignition of the air:fuel mixture before the planned spark plug firing and during the compression stroke of the piston. Pre-ignition can be extremely damaging to pistons and cylinder walls as the air:fuel mixture ignites while the piston is on the way up instead of on the way down. Pre-ignition in general is usually caused by heat, or a hot surface, or compression pressures. Carbon deposits can retain heat and get hot enough in some spots to ignite the fuel by accident. Carbon build-up is the primary cause of LSPI so the above advice also applies for mitigating LSPI. Oil choice will also play a factor, especially when using older oil formulas with higher ZDDP or with extended change intervals where "burned" oil is present. The newest SN Plus API oil spec includes additives meant to reduce LSPI. Higher octane fuel and flex fuel are also more resistant to pre-ignition.

Oil for BMW Gasoline-Electric Hybrids (PHEV, Mild Hybrid, etc)  
Gasoline-Electric hybrids present an interesting lubrication problem - how do you apply lubrication to engine internals without an oil pump operating? In standard fashion the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. If the crank is spinning the oil pump is too. But with many 2023+ hybrid models (aka 48V Mild Hybrid) the engine is shut down and the electric drive in the transmission takes over. This can be at low speeds, coasting speeds, or idle. These are different scenarios than the Stop/Start sequence that will engage the starter like normal. The hybrid powertrains are constantly and seamlessly alternating between engine or electric drive. BMW was obviously worried about lubrication with the engine shut off. The oil is not circulating, nor is the oil at operating temp, so its viscosity is thicker. With the Mild Hybrid engines BMW uses a permanent self-lubricating bearing coating known as IROX (see description above). They also switched to a ultra-thin 0W12 engine oil. All of this in the name of improving published fuel economy.

The 0W12 is the factory fill (or first-fill) of the engine oil on the production line. BMW must supply the car with this oil spec as that was how the vehicle was tested and certified for emissions and fuel economy. After that, all bets are off. BMW evaluated and tested other engine oils and viscosities and they offer several approved alternatives to the 0W12. Both the 0W20 (LL17FE+) and 0W30 (LL01FE) are BMW-approved alternatives. You can almost always switch to a “thicker” oil because the targeted optimum oil viscosity falls within the characteristics of the new oil (i.e. 0W20 falls within 0W30). Switching from a thicker oil to thinner is not advised as that heavier viscosity may be needed to maintain clearances. You may obviously continue using the 0W12 if you wish.

Other Interesting Sources

Why 10W60 Oil?    
The origin of the 10W60 BMW engine oil may never be fully known. Here's what we know:    
Our first exposure to 10W60 was with the McLaren F1. The F1 used a dry-sump oil system with the tank in the right side luggage compartment. A badge on the tank notes to only use Castrol RS 10W60 oil. What many people don't know is that the bespoke Weismann transmission used oil from the same tank (like on a motorcycle). Given BMW's keen interest in the F1, engineers would have monitored and subjected the oil and engine internals to rigorous tests and inspections so it can be said that BMW M engineers were fans of the Castrol 10W60.

Then it's curious why BMW specified 5W40 for the Euro S50 engine when it was released in 1993. It's a similar engine design and even shares a few components with the F1's S70/2. Perhaps there was concern that the super-thick viscosities would be inappropriate for the M3's global market. Whereas the F1's oil warm-up time in the engine and transmission was probably quicker. It's interesting to note the S50B32 in the later E36 came with thicker 10W40 or 15W50 factory recommendations.

When the S62 V8 was released for the Z8 and M5 in 1998 the factory oil recommendation was the latest Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W60. And then early in the M5's life - March 2000 - BMW switched their official recommendation to 5W30. While at the same time the E46 M3 and S54 were released with the 10W60 “requirement”. And the 10W60 continued through the E60 M5's V10 and E92 M3's V8. And BMW continues to offer the 10W60 (now produced by Shell).

It should be noted that all common brands of 10W60 oil, including the original Castrol TWS and Edge, are quite thick. The SAE scale is inadequate and not to the resolution that helps make buying decisions. The “60” grade is the highest the scale goes to. The 10W60 grade is curious since even a Red Line 15W50 is thinner in all laboratory tests. Is the higher viscosity directly related to use as the transmission oil in the F1 (and also in the Corvette ZR1)? Or because of the solid shimmed lifters in the S50 and S54 (but not in hydraulic lifters for the S62)? Was it a marketing or technical partnership with Castrol at the time? Or was there an unconscious effort to focus on high-temp/high-RPM protection at the expense of cold temp viscosity? What we think is that all of the common 10W60 oils are better considered heavier than the SAE weight indicates. Somehow, they are labeled as 10W-60. But do your research and you will likely find thinner oils in 15W50, and some with even better base stocks and performance formulas.

Terminology & Acronyms

Below are some explanation of the scientific terminology, jargon, and acronyms commonly used when discussing BMW engine oil.      
 

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